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This is the interior part of the site, this takes on the biggest mods of the car - my electronics! all the panels and various mods you see here are manufactured by myself, its a constant ongoing project.
All the panels you see are designed on a PC and printed out as displays on various types of plastics. I have mastered the art of making membrane type panels with buttons hidden under the membranes, this allows me to give them a factory fitted look. All bulbs in the car bar headlights & fogl ights are now LEDs not filament lamps.
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The interior itself is blue leather on grey trim. The pedals have been replaced, steering wheel, gear shift & the stereo has found a new home built into the roof.
The entire interior of the car is lit up blue with EL piping picking out some of the details on the doors and rear seating areas. The wire itself can be cut to any length, all you need to do is keep enough at the end to make the electrical connection. To find out more about EL wire Click Here!
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I added illumination to all the seat belt buckles, these light up red & come on with the side light position.
You can see in the rear area I added a courtesy light, one each side as well as UV lighting in the coat hooks to light the rear seats gently.
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Toyota omitted to illuminate the passenger window switch so, white LEDs have been flush fitted into the switch to provide this. Lighting has also been fitted to the door handles, grab handles, lock bezel & door pocket.
The drivers door matches this & both electric windows have been fitted with auto up/down as described HERE which helps greatly with those sodding car park ticket machines where we all duly pay to have our doors dented by 4X4 drivers!
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The electric window system has also been modified to work whenever the doors are open or the ACC position is on, this is particularly helpful if sat waiting in the car for a passenger or when cleaning the car and you don’t have the keys! Info here.
In the passenger door card I fitted the control for the passenger electric seat with parts I used from a drivers seat, white LEDs around the joystick illuminate the switch - same in centre console for drivers side seat.
You can also make out lighting in the glove compartment latch and for the heater vent controls.
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The following part of the page is yet to be updated! - Coming soon tho!
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I have never been a fan of car keys so decided to do something about it.
The Supra no longer has a key, instead it has a clear round plastic transponder about 1.5” long. This fits into a holder where the old key start was, when inserted it lights up blue and is read by the control unit, this then switches the power onto the entertainment system and brings the panel mounted on the steering wheel alive.
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This panel lights up with green illumination and has 3 coloured buttons on one side, red is off, yellow is power, green is start.
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When pressed, the yellow button will just turn the ignition system on, this allows you to operate the windows etc, when the green button is pressed the car will start, off obviously turns the engine and ignition off, also if the transponder is simply pulled from its holder the car will also shut down, quick and simple!
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I managed to fit the panel to the wheel by means of a metal bracket cut to shape and some shaped acrylic.
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A new boss for the wheel had to be made up, it’s based on a standard MOMO Supra boss with the parts added to allow the auto turn signal chancel to work, I had to extend this part as the MOMO boss sits further away from the system than the original wheel.
Next problem was the wires!, not an easy task. I ended up with a system that did away with all the slip rings already on the car and instead opted for
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I cut channels into the plastic former of the panel and fitted the switches and individual LEDs into this, a second thin piece of plastic then went on top of this lower part to keep the components in place and conceal the wiring. This top part incorporates an LED strip to provide the back lighting of each panel, a printed membrane panel is then stuck over the top of the plastic.
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The idea of having LEDs next to the power switches is to indicate which one is operational at any time, eg, if the car is running the only switch that will do anything is the off switch so, a pair of LEDs next to it flash to indicate that is the only switch that will operate.
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Before the wheel mounted system I had the same thing fitted in the centre console infront of the gear stick, when I changed the steering wheel it gave me the chance to put it in the wheel.
Because the new wheel meant loosing the cruise control buttons I made the panel on the right hand side of the wheel operate the cruise, this has the same buttons on as the original wheel with the addition of LEDs that light up each side of the power button when cruise is selected.
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I also designed a remote control starting system, this is triggered from my alarm key fob, the first button does the alarm and doors and the second when pressed will start the car. I made a circuit up that interfaced with the ECU so the car knew when to crank the engine and when to stop, the system is the same used when you press the start button, this allows a quick press of the button and the car cranks automatically till the engine fires.
The system has a few safety devices built in so when the car is running with no key, should anybody try and move it, the car will just shut off, also a system prevents the car from being started remotely when its in gear.
The system has served me well, future plans will hopefully see some of the sterio controls in the wheel also.
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As described in the ICE section, I fitted the front panel of the stereo into a roof mounted panel. The rest of the head unit lies behind the front TV,.
The head unit has several inputs to it, one is my mobile, the phone sits in a small cradle with the hands free wire plugged in. When I get a call I push a button in the cradle, this then relays the mobile sound onto the main sound system, a very clear hands free kit!
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The panel next to the TV has various functions, these are: Left, right and sub level indicators at the bottom, A/V system power supply status,
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TV power, TV input select and rear screen power status. There is also a remote sensor for the TV remote. The panel is back lit green.
I built a dimmer system for all the courtesy lighting, this is a slow dim effect when they go off. The two black buttons here either turn all the courtesy lighting off, handy when working on the car, or they turn it all on.
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Blue LED’s are fitted behind the lamps to give them a subtle glow at night, I also fitted green LED’s to the switches so they can be located at night, a second red LED comes on in each switch when the button is pressed.
The lighting has been upgraded to hyper bright white LEDs, this I have done to all the interior lights, it looks great and uses a fraction of the power compared to the old bulbs. I fitted two extra lights each side of the rear seat and also lighting into the foot wells that come on with the doors.
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As well as white lighting when the doors open all the foot wells have subtle ice blue lighting when the side lights are on, this again is supplied by LEDs, its less in your face than neon and takes less space so you can fit it anywhere, even my glove box lever has lighting each side provided by two 3mm LEDs hidden in the trim.
These pedals I found on Ebay one night, they look great, lit using EL film they come on with the side lights. The red light on the gas pedal is a bar graph, this lights up the whole length of the pedal as its pushed down, it has 15 individual segments in all, based on KITT’s gas pedal.
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The panel above the TV has controls on for the Turbo timer, the Idle control system (now redundant) the auto antenna, the “KITT” scanner with an interlock so the scanner turns off when the car is started, I also built an auto lights system, this turns the side lights on in low light then the head lights on at night, I built the two light switches and placed a tiny light sensor behind the passenger sun visor clip.
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The system works perfectly, there is a built in hysteresis to prevent the lights going on and off in dusky conditions, you can also override the system using the normal light switch.
The car picture indicates open doors, heated rear window and wiper status, lighting switched on and the status of the main engine fans. Symbols light up inside the car depending on what is being indicated, e.g.’ when the engine fans come on a blue fan symbol lights up on the bonnet.
The bar graph display shows the fuel mixture from the O2 sensor output.
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The heater controls I always found poorly lit so, I put an LED behind each switch building them into the old light guide behind, this also allowed me to change the colours of the recirc switch and also the AC LED’s. I also changed the pointer LED’s to white.
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I made up LED strips to go behind the heater and fan controls picking the blue and red heat markers out with separate blue and red lamps.
In the centre of the panel I fitted a cabin temperature display, the sensor for which is mounted in the same place as the one for the climate control (in front of passenger above glove box|)
In-between the two A/C switches I have fitted a red LED, this indicates when the A/C compressor is engaged, it fits flush with the original trim so is invisible when off.
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Not having a digital dash and being an avid Knight Rider fan, I took it into my own hands to build one!
This is the 2003 version, I am working on a 2004 version as we speak.
The design is simple, incorporating all the old instrumentation into some new displays.
The Turbo panel displays the boost from -5 to + 15 psi using a bar graph, I also included a digital read out for
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Turbo temperature, the sensor for this is mounted on the turbo bearing housing.
The power meter displays the battery voltage and also indicates what is on, so ACC, IGNITION POWER and RUNNING.
I incorporated an outside temperature display above the clock, this also has symbols that light up to indicate frost and ice conditions.
The oil PSI and fuel are also displayed on bar graphs, it took a bit of modding to the sender units on both but, we got there in the end!
The water gauge is in its original position, this also incorporates a digital temperature readout. I made up “T” pipe that fits in the cooling system,
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this has a sensor built into it which relays the temperature to the dash readout.
All the electronic PCBs are mounted in a small box which sits behind the instrument cluster. The new 2004 unit will hopefully have all the electronics built in and also have digital taco and speedo.
The design of the first digital dash made use of the original gauge placements, this was so the old dials could be re installed. I now have three of these instrument clusters so the new dash will be a bit more adventurous as, I do not need to worry about damaging my original instrument cluster!
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All the displays have back lit scales to match the rest of the car, it’s all very clear and evenly lit in the flesh, even the air vent symbols have been back lit.
it’s very difficult to catch this on film, I’ll keep trying though!
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t’s been an enjoyable project, there is so much fitted to the Supra, that electronics are easy to interface with the car, you just need to be able to work out the circuits that Toyota have fitted as no info is ever available for the actual PCBs.
The next version should include a digital speedometer and tacho along with other displays from different panels in the car, this will free up space to include more features in the car.
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I put 5 LED’s down the length of each sill moulding, these welcome you into the car when the door opens, they scroll through all the colours of the rainbow!
Other extra illumination is in the centre consol compartments, glove box latch and even the gear knob!
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